How to safely mount an XP-120 on a naked dual core

[Clint]

You do this at your own risk, I only provide you with a suggestion on how to do this...the decision is yours.







Ok, if you still are here and we have that out of the way:

I have made this on a DFI Ultra-D board, if you have a different model you might wanna check the clearance and mountingholes before you continue.

First you need to check your memoryclearance, the maximum height allowed
for the memory is 39mm, and as you can see the Mushkin XP4000 are 38mm high so it will fit snuggly under the fins: (2 pics)



You will also need to be prepared to cut off a tiny bit (3-4mm) from one of the alu-heatsinks: (2 pics)
(do 1 horisontal "mark" first, then 3 vertical cuts...no violence needed)



Then you need to cut some plastic off the XP-120 mounting bracket, make the outer ridge levelled with the inner ridge: (3 pics)




Flatten the edge as in picture: (2 pics)



Then you mount the bracket and cooler together.
Make sure the clips are centered and hooked properly all the way up into the mounting holes: (2 pics)



Now you place washers for support and raise (1mm thick, 9mm diameter) : (1 pic)
(positioned like this)


Hold like this and use your thum to press up the cooler and then slide the washer in : (2 pics)



Now check the alliance between the cooler and the bracket, should look straight and even like this: (3 pics)




Mounting:
To help balancing the cooler while mounting you could utilize something that has the same thickness as your distance between cooler and memory..(you did measure before, right?). This will also help you to keeping the paste not to be pressed out on one side while tightening the screws, this is very important on a naked core where you have a much smaller contact surface : (1 pic)




Check again that the clips are hooked all the way up on the holders and make sure everything sits evenly on all sides!!!


Lower the whole package on the core and use a small screwdriver to alternately turn the screws a quarter turn on each side until the screws are fully tightened: (1 pic)


When fully tightened the washers will fall out: (2 pics)



Do not forget to remove the washers!!!

Check clearance: (4 pics)





Done!

[jsriolo]

Man you are really tempting me to do something like this...

[onewingedangel]

same procedure for single core right?

[Clint]

same procedure for single core right?

Yup, procedure is the same...but the single core is smaller thus more sensitive for side pressure.
But as long as you make sure everything are levelled and straight before you mount it you will be fine...just sequentially turn the screws a quarter turn each.
After it's mounted it is very stable, no problem there.

[jsriolo]

How did this effect temps/clock on your 170? Did you do this because the IHS had bad contact or just for a few extra mhz?

[Clint]

How did this effect temps/clock on your 170? Did you do this because the IHS had bad contact or just for a few extra mhz?

I did gained 50MHz at same voltage and lowered temps some 8 degrees load.

[Bail_w]

why dont you use thermaltake big typhoon on a naked core, no hassels.

[Clint]

why dont you use thermaltake big typhoon on a naked core, no hassels.

Why don't you do that, and I do it my way

The Big Typhoon I would never mount on a naked core if not on a horisontally lying motherboard.
The XP-120 still has the "springs" to even out pressure, on the Big Typhoon you have that silly narrow mountingplate...that is made of thick metal...with the 2 holes in a line centered over the core....that will be horisontal when chassi standing up...truly insane to trust that.
Then you are using bolts/nuts to press it down, the thing slides around when mounting, virtually impossible to get an even pressure.

The XP-120 has the best holding mechanism of them two, it's only the intended mountingprocedure that are hazardous...but when mounting it this way that is eliminated.
The bracket are tightened fully to the retentionplate, thus equally on both sides..

It's a no brainer to me at least

ppl, if you haven't got anything useful to add to this tutorial...please don't crap here.

[mad mikee]

Like the innovative method Takes the issues I had out of the picture.

Might suggest a custom 1-2mm thick piece of metal as a 'washer' (same size as the mounting area) between spring and the 'wings' on the HSF itself to increase mounting pressure.

Oh did you lap the base or @ least check it since the 2 I got a while ago were NOT flat?


Oh and I epoxied the TTBT 'crossbar from Machiavelli' to the TTBT w/ some JB weld for those that have a TTBT already and hate that thing as much as I did. Even if you had enough hands to keep track of everything, they couldn't all fit in there.

[Clint]

Like the innovative method Takes the issues I had out of the picture.

Might suggest a custom 1-2mm thick piece of metal as a 'washer' (same size as the mounting area) between spring and the 'wings' on the HSF itself to increase mounting pressure.

Oh did you lap the base or @ least check it since the 2 I got a while ago were NOT flat?

Hehe, ...I did just now learned that you already have had this up on the table...

The pressure is actually quite enough I believe, but if we raise the wings the angle for the hooks will be in a more natural position....hence the remarks I've maid in the tutorial about double checking that they are hooked in all the way into the holders.
But once mounted there is nothing to worry about.

I will look into that shim...must cover the whole base as you said though...otherwise we will loose the controlled springfunction.

My base is flat actually, must have been lucky there...some lapping wouldnt hurt though

[jsriolo]

I have read it over and I can't think of any questions. I really don't know what anyone could add, that is a very thorough guide! I would really like to do this but I'm not sure that I am brave enough to do the surgery on my 170.