Newbie, Project water block CPU

[pie_uk]

ok hello everyone at xtreme systems i have been reading your posts for a whiile and found them very intresting. I am making a project at college and thought why not make a cpu cooler block? crazy i no .

since im doing engineering i will have accese to many tools etc.

here is my plan so far using my own and this sites resorces
ok i have had a few ideas here they ok i have found some pics from this extreme website






thats my measurments for where the holes will mount, my question is could i use an acrylic/lucite top, would that be a good choice or purely to just slap a copper sheet on the top once i have milled the copper out?



the image i drew with paint is one option i find very intresting since it shouldnt be that hard and it will be effective, the grey holes top and bottom are the holes to hold the lucite top on, held by screws once the copper has been tapped also i'll add a rubber washer, band around the rim just like the DD ones? what do you think any ideas tips?

and does anyone have a link to were i can buy that swiftech 6002 top? to hold it to the mobo either that or i will just make the lucite top

im pretty much confused how to mount it to the soc 939 athlon 64 mobo? any help or tips etc will be execellent because i know that DD have an overhang on the lucite top which would be nice if i could make that ?

also would buying a draper multi tool be worth it? 35£

[Overconfidence]

Weee, we've got another custom block maker!

I'm making a custom block myself at the moment.

The top can be made out of copper (instead of lucite, but lucite will work fine as well), as long as you're aware that copper's a bit harder to machine.

I wouldn't bother with the swiftech top, it's probably better to just make your own. Sure, it won't look as pretty, but who cares, it's inside your computer case after all.

I don't know what fittings that swiftech is using, but you're most likely be going to be looking at barbs: That means that the top part of your block (top half) will have to be thicker than just a plate.

That design you're looking at there is quite simple. You could probably do quite a bit more, but I don't know what tools you have access to. If you could list exactly what you've got, then we could help you more. Can you get a full set of taps? Borrow some taps? Do you have any type of milling machine? Are you limited to a hacksaw and dremel? That info'll help us tell you what you can make.

Here's a block design that I'm making using a lathe, taps, and a drill press. Maybe this can give you a couple ideas. Or you can just look at it blankly =P.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...dence/wbb5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...dence/wbb3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...dence/wbb2.jpg

And another design, while I'm at it...



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/mephwbb3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...e/mephwbb4.jpg

Again, this is done (or will be done) with a lathe, drill press, taps.

I don't know what s939 mounting is, but that'll be the last of your worries. Once you get the block up and running you can slap a mounting plate onto and be up and running.

Do you have experience with autocad? That'll help you a lot with block designing. Of course, paint is great for a start, easy to use, no boundaries.

Check out n00b of l337's block design thread for a few quick ideas as well!

[pie_uk]

hey thank you for your time and effort on that. ok well i will have acces to a dremel thing, a milling machine , solder, welding spot welding loads of drill bits taps etc

i like your desgin you have going is there a reaon for your inlet to be at a slight angle, i heard that it is a good thing to do. one thing i amd confused about with your design is the holes you have four big holes then 4 little ones, i take it your going to use a lucite top? i think i will stick with the easiest top i can make i.e lucite and it will look good hehe. heres what i was meaning about the luicte top to mount it



see how the lucite top overlaps the main copper heat sink so that it is easy to mousnt , i was thinking about doing that so that i can buy these



i have found a dremel ( i think ) they call it a draper ?

also when i drill out the main area or mill it? how close do i idealy want to go to the bottom of the copper?

if this project goes well i will be making my own res to
as of now i dont have accese to cad i will have to wait intill i am at college even then ill be useless at it intill i study it lol for the materials part of it, i was thinking of going to a local builders and getting a copper block what thickness should i get ? iv looked on danger den and they sell there copper block 1/2" thick and 2inchs width then wat ever length you want? is 1/2inch thickness what i should be aiming for?


any more help advise? thank you , you lovely people


ps i checked out his whole thread beofe even thinking about this whole thing lol thank you very much its great link/info


Today i have been designing this

i am aware that it looks crap and like a tape cassete lol well the idea is that it uses "holes" like the swift tech 6002 block what do you think? ps the range bit is the copper block and the big sqaure around it is a lucite top just noticed it should be more sqaure ill design it again


i take it with that pic the holes are the circles? are they left alone or is that the bit that goes further into the copper?

[Overconfidence]

1/2" thickness is fine for what you want. You can always mill it down, and dangerden has good deals, unless you can get it locally (since shipping on metal is harsh).

The 4 "bigger" holes are for screws to hold it together, and the smaller ones are mounting holes into my motherboard. The overhang is fine to do with the lucite, as long as you have some screws holding the main part of the block together.

That impingement design, from the side, would look more like this:



Basically, little jets getting the water into those holes you see.

[pie_uk]

ok cheers well i think i have decided the basic things copper 1/2inch thick, lucite/acrylic top possibly 1/2inch thick again? , probably the impingement design but across the whole area of the block, which that side view you drew, i take it the inlet would be the one above the jets, holes .. etc? then the outlet the one on the right?

that tool i showed you a picture of , is that a dremel#/?
is half inch barbing good enough or perhaps smaller?


keep the help coming its great!!

[Hotplate]

That tool on the picture is dremel.

[pie_uk]

yes i thought so thank you,, so do you guys reckon a white water clone water block will work best?

also do i actually need a res/rad ? or can i just add a T line?

[Overconfidence]

The block that I showed (the first one) is a whitewater clone. However, you need a plate in the middle, which can be a bit hard to do. It should work fairly well, but you might want to stick to a pin-based block if you don't have that great of a pump.

You don't need a reservoir if you have a T-line (It just takes a bit longer to get all the air out of the system), but you definately need a radiator, since that's what cools everything off .

[pie_uk]

ah i see!! i never knew there was a plate ther!! ok maybe i'll chose a diff design , are you sure i would need a plate i was thinking of the white water clone ideqa with 1 inlet 1 outlet and then once i had made the fins i could just put the acrylic top on? i didnt think id need another plate ... doh maybe a pingement design would be better, question what is the distance i need to mill into the metal? as in ..


? the dashed line is a hidden line ? obviously i dont want a massive space (hole) in the copper.

[Overconfidence]

Oooh, okay.

if you're doing an inlet on one side and an outlet on the other side with a bunch of fins in the middle, then you don't need a plate in the middle. In my design, there's a plate in the middle since it directs the flow, which is hitting right on the middle. For you, the water will be flowing through, so you won't need that.

[Bloody_Sorcerer]

try building a block like jaydee's R-Type (2) over at procooling. it actually performs pretty well and doesn't look too tough to make.

[pie_uk]

ah ok thats great but what kind of pump will i be needing? not to pricey.!

so how far do i mill into the copper 1/2inch (original size)

please give a link to jades type r block ? edit just had a look and it looks very good. so basically its the
design? so basically i drill small holes 5mm deep ? then connect them all up using a dremel cutter tool? what diameter are the holes? any technical info will be much appricated

edit ok i just looked at the jadees no 2 water block and that looks harder to make due to the acrylic top not being there.? were can i get a rubber o ring for inside the block that stops leaks etc thank you

[Overconfidence]

Here's a good render of the odd-ball block that someone did at procooling.



That's your bottom piece. It's a bunch of holes drilled, connected by a dremel which makes those pins.

Don't worry, you can always make the top out of acrylic instead of metal. You have to have a top either way. All you have to do to the top is to drill 2 holes, your inlet and outlet, on each side, corresponding with the empty spaces at each end on the bottom piece. I don't know dimensions yet, but I could quickly draw one up in Autocad and get a few (although you would need to make the dimensions in your top piece equal to whatever fittings you get).

[pancake]

that tool in the picture isnt actually a dremel , its a draper multi tool , a rip off of the dremmel . im going to guess your in the u.k as you have uk in your name... they sell dremels in argos stores for about £50 - £70 with loads of atachments link

[pie_uk]

ah so its not a dremel lol well.... so that tool is pants compared to a dremel? although they sell it on a really kool website that speacialises in water cooling www.coolercases.co.uk

yes i am from uk cheers for that link

@ Overconfidence cheers for that pic that looks like what i should make i am thinking of say 1/2inch thick copper but how wide? and the 1/2 or so acrylic top these are the barbs i will be getting anger Den Hi-Flow 1/2" Hose Tail to 9/16" Thread does that sound any good? theres a pic (above of it )


although you would need to make the dimensions in your top piece equal to whatever fittings you get). ? how do you mean sorry for asking lol

also i was thinking of making a mod to the inlet which will be in the acrylic top, basically drill3 small holes just before the bottom of the barb thread gets to the end of the acrylic top ill try and find a pic to make more sense

edit heres the sense

[Pessimisten]

That tool on the picture is dremel.

No it's not, a dremel must come from the Dremel company becuse the name dremel is a company name not a name off a tool.

[Overconfidence]

"@ Overconfidence cheers for that pic that looks like what i should make i am thinking of say 1/2inch thick copper but how wide? and the 1/2 or so acrylic top these are the barbs i will be getting anger Den Hi-Flow 1/2" Hose Tail to 9/16" Thread does that sound any good? theres a pic (above of it )"

1/2 inch by 2 inches should be good, you may have to buy a foot of the material though.

I meant that if I give you any dimensions for the holes in the top piece, you'd have to double check with the barbs that you're getting.

Making the extra little holes in the top part is good if your inlet goes right onto the pins. However, if you're going from one side to the other, don't bother with those holes.

[pancake]

the draper will work just aswell for some jobs , but it only spins upto 20,000 rpm were as the dremel spins upto 35,000 rpm .. easier to cut through metal with a cutting disc the faster it spins. for an extra £10 you can get the dremel and know itll do whatever you want it to

[pie_uk]

ok ill search for a uk dremel man facturer and thanks for the info on size of the block this is going to be fun fun fun!!!!

[n00b 0f l337]

Nice to see people reading the guide. And yes the 45 degree elbow in the design me and over have been working on will help out and make tubing really easy.

[del_fuego]

ok ill search for a uk dremel man facturer

Get yourself down to B&Q pie_uk. They always have a giant Dremel section with everything you ever wanted thats Dremel, plus all the other stuff you didnt know they made! :thumbsup:

Cheers, dEl.

[pie_uk]

Cheers mate i will do lol

[pie_uk]

finished result >> see project

http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=103285

cheers all

[Pete]

Nice dude....i'd make the base thinner on the next and use coper and same top only. Also an o-ring as to the gasket stuff...still nicely done!

[pie_uk]

yep the gasket filler was an instant bodge. i ran out of time and its all i could think of doing !

yep thinner coper and gasket. i shall make this again when i move back to england