About 18 months, exactly . I had another BR before (for a couple of months and no problems with that NB stock waterblock), but that BR failed and I got this one as replacement.
About 18 months, exactly . I had another BR before (for a couple of months and no problems with that NB stock waterblock), but that BR failed and I got this one as replacement.
Last edited by therager; 03-02-2011 at 06:22 AM.
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Thanks for the heads up guys, I had just bought a BR block from someone here a few months back and still have not installed it. I'm going to go the Pilsy route and get the HeatKiller SB/NB block and run with it.
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Found this block:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27055
I don't know much about the brand, but the color scheme works with the BloodRage.
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Can confirm the Heatkiller has negligible impact in terms of flow resistance on my loop. Still cant run the pump above 10v without my res going mental . Temp has settled at an average of 4c lower for what its worth. Im not even sure where exactly that sensor is but it would appear the HK cools it better than the stock block . 22c ambient 26c idle 32c load.
That alphacool block will go well with the BR. Beware though you cant get much mount pressure with those swinging arms. I've tried various heatsinks and blocks that have tried that over the years and theyve all been rubbish. The problem is that hinge is always at the point of maximum torque when the block ismounted, so it twists and you lose pressure.
Swiftech MCW30 should fit but is a restrictive design. Couldnt figure out for sure if any of the EK blocks would fit.
I reckon the heatkiller is still the best option.
I use EK NB/SB-5. It fits, but not perfectly, maximum distance between these long bolts cannot reach same distance as diagonal mounting holes. They go into the basement lil bit tilted, but finally its OK, block is stable, print on the base is proper, has good contact tho and it cools. Little fileing, to extend/widen mounting channels(those enlonged holes) on the block, would make it perfect.
Wish I could use proper english terminology, sorry
Last edited by Heavybomber; 05-06-2011 at 02:19 AM.
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Makes perfect sense man dont sweat it! Good to know the EK will fit with a bit of effort. Easy block to paint red too .
A friend of mine, better than me in soldering, tried to repair my BR WB:
Now is time for bathroom 24/7 testing .
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So if you do use the block, it seems like the idea is not to screw it on too tight?]
No, it's not due to faulty screwing . The block cover and the base are soldered with something wrong.
Last edited by therager; 12-21-2012 at 08:23 AM.
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damn dude just get a cheap block already from swiftech or something what are you doing eek
Yeah theres no way id risk hardware on that. Chipset blocks are cheap when you weigh the cost up against peace of mind....
Last edited by therager; 05-01-2012 at 10:59 AM.
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Nice to see, a couple of months are a good sign that it will last for a long time. At least if your friend has used the right solder.
I have restored mine as well, but I resoldered everything, took of the bottom, sandblasted the brass-top and soldered everything together again.
After painting the whole thing, theres no visible difference. The only difference is, that there's no water running down to my nvidias
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If anyone is looking for these, I still have one unused along with the ln2 block.
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