Copper and Aluminum Galvanic Corrosion

[saaya]

Its been 2 months, we are moving offices so i had to disassemble the loop anyways.
i just opened the block and took a pic for you guys:


i dont really see any changes compared to 2 months ago...
theres a slight greenish color on the edge of the base and i noticed some white-ish green-ish stuff on the top of the waterblock:


it looks like corroded aluminum and copper, so far, nothing to worry about though.
considering that this loop has been running for 3 months im surprised how few corrosion signs ive seen so far.
either corrosion really isnt that big a deal or the koolance anti corrosion additive is doing a really good job

This is the koolance stuff im using:
http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-liq-700bu-b.html
its also available in yellow/green red and purple i think, and its uv reactive too, not 100% sure about the latter, but according to google there are koolance uv reactive mixes. even if its not, to get uv reaction you only have to add a few drops of the right stuff, so... its easy to prepare your perfect h20 soup

[saaya]

______ JULY _____ ___ SEPTEMBER ___



Heres a compare, different light, angle and distance.
actually the new pic looks even better than the older one



the pics suck, i know :P
but i think its enough to conclude that there isnt any serious corrosion going on eating through the blocks that will cause a leak anytime soon
the copper block still looks like copper and isnt all green or black, the alu top is still black and doesnt look corroded except for some small white-ish marks on the side

[Sailindawg]

Saaya, no disrespect intended, but your photo shows the beginnings of corrosion on the aluminum top. It looks localized where the anodize is not even. Now, it's not like one of the threads that shows a Swiftech GTX aluminum block that is just disintegrating, but you still got a bit of corrosion going on. Your coolant is doing a decent job at slowing down the corrosion. I would change it every 4 months to ensure it's fresh and to keep an eye on the system.

I just got this board and so far from the little bit of playing around with it, it's a very good product. From the user results posted here, it is a very capable board. I think it's head and shoulders above other X48 boards. However, if you guys at Foxconn could make one change to the board, change the aluminum top to delrin. Then this subject of corrosion is moot. Otherwise, I'm pretty impressed with the board so far.

Regards!

[saaya]

Saaya, no disrespect intended, but your photo shows the beginnings of corrosion on the aluminum top. It looks localized where the anodize is not even. Now, it's not like one of the threads that shows a Swiftech GTX aluminum block that is just disintegrating, but you still got a bit of corrosion going on. Your coolant is doing a decent job at slowing down the corrosion. I would change it every 4 months to ensure it's fresh and to keep an eye on the system.

I just got this board and so far from the little bit of playing around with it, it's a very good product. From the user results posted here, it is a very capable board. I think it's head and shoulders above other X48 boards. However, if you guys at Foxconn could make one change to the board, change the aluminum top to delrin. Then this subject of corrosion is moot. Otherwise, I'm pretty impressed with the board so far.

Regards!

thanks!

and sure, your absolutely right
there are signs of corrosion, i just wanted to point out that there isnt a reason to worry if you use an additive
some people were worries their blocks will corrode so bad they would get leaks and the blocks would be trash cause of the holes in them after a year of usage

the waterblock on our BloodRage X58 board will be copper base and brass/bronze top, which are very close in the anodic index (0.00-0.10V difference) so there shouldnt be any notable corrosion even without a water additive

For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold - silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.

http://corrosion-doctors.org/Definit...nic-series.htm

[Crazystang01]

Great news about the top for the Bloodrage was going to ask you that. Oh and tell them not to put any counter boar's in the tops for the fittings. Got a Chilled PC top for my Black ops which worked out nice.

[Gendo]

the waterblock on our BloodRage X58 board will be copper base and brass/bronze top, which are very close in the anodic index (0.00-0.10V difference) so there shouldnt be any notable corrosion even without a water additive

Why not just use a copper top? If the loop becomes all copper there wouldn't be any problems, would there? I know, you'll probably say it's because of the high copperprices but still...I had to say it

[gmcg]

Why not just use a copper top? If the loop becomes all copper there wouldn't be any problems, would there? I know, you'll probably say it's because of the high copperprices but still...I had to say it

If copper top is too expensive, it should be an option to choose two versions with different prices, IMO. Or use delrin top instead for one option. Brass/bronze top is good enough as well. I want BloodRage already

[saaya]

Great news about the top for the Bloodrage was going to ask you that. Oh and tell them not to put any counter boar's in the tops for the fittings. Got a Chilled PC top for my Black ops which worked out nice.

what do you mean with counter boars?

Why not just use a copper top? If the loop becomes all copper there wouldn't be any problems, would there? I know, you'll probably say it's because of the high copperprices but still...I had to say it

dont ask me, its both a cost and a mfg thing... copper isnt that easy to work with, bronze and other alloys are easier to work with... apparently...
i asked them for full copper, if its copper and bronze it should be fine... but ill continue to push them for full copper, dont worry

If copper top is too expensive, it should be an option to choose two versions with different prices, IMO. Or use delrin top instead for one option. Brass/bronze top is good enough as well. I want BloodRage already

well, you will be able to use an entirely different waterblock the waterblock will be exchangeable without removing the rest of the motherboards cooling

[Lu(ky]

______ JULY _____ ___ SEPTEMBER ___



Heres a compare, different light, angle and distance.
actually the new pic looks even better than the older one



the pics suck, i know :P
but i think its enough to conclude that there isnt any serious corrosion going on eating through the blocks that will cause a leak anytime soon
the copper block still looks like copper and isnt all green or black, the alu top is still black and doesnt look corroded except for some small white-ish marks on the side

I would like to show you guys what the North block will look like using the metal block (black) vs a copper one. I ran 1 loop for about 3 months using the following parts. Distilled water, Swiftech Hydrx coolant, Pentosin antifreeze (G001100) I am hopping Foxconn did not skimp with the new X58 board BloodRage North Block? The sad thing is I was given a NEW all Copper block for a replacement, but I was to lazy on switching them.

[Boogerlad]

guys, a lot of rads for pc cooling have copper and brass, so copper and brass have nothing to worrry about.

[Firann]

guys, a lot of rads for pc cooling have copper and brass, so copper and brass have nothing to worrry about.

Thats because brass is an allow of copper + zinc. I would think that brass, bronze (copper and tin) and pure copper would be fine in any loop!

[Mescalamba]

As long as there isnt aluminium, you are fine. Brass is ok.