Tested a bit with Jinu, I cant seem to view the pics even straight by link...
Tested a bit with Jinu, I cant seem to view the pics even straight by link...
If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.
must have your browser set to block phase pron!!!Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Haha I even tried other comps and IE.
Back to Jinu's show though, I can only imagine what beautiful work I've been missing.
If you have a cooling question or concern feel free to contact me.
Don't get flustered NOL - It's only soft :banana::banana::banana::banana:.Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Hey jin - how do you keep the evap from falling off the copper tubing when it gets hot?
Simple, tap it and screw the 5/16 in. It helps conducting heat better and also make sure I cap tube stays there, etc
Okay - so you drill the hole in the center of the evap a tad smaller than 5/16 and then you tap it. as you turn the 5/16 copper tube into the evaporator, the threads in the evap thread the copper tube and this holds the two pieces together while brazing.
What keeps the brazing alloy from flowing down into the mounting groove? Or do you have to clean the groove out?
Uhmmm
I also groove the shell with lathe so enough solder sits in there... very rarely will i get filler going down to groove and if some does, it is so thin that it doesn't matter
Told you the lathe is more than paying for itself. Braze time of avg evap is now around 3 mins from start to end once prepped.
Well, what can I say... the unit is tuned for VERY heavy load. Flutter of -53c and than it goes to idle around -49c. It will be VERY hard to see evap temp below -38c on this machine :P
Also, major new thing here
Yup, basically I gave him option to use 220v for running his psu... :P
Looks a little empty at back eh?
Here is why
This uses k-type probe. Can go down to -200c reading I believe. Up to -60c the thing was dead on with 3 thermometer I tested with... (Fluke, BK, UEI)
It has been programmed to shut down psu if there is emergency and won't let you start computer till evap reached -45c once at least
Guess it is time to pack and ship
Looking good Jin, cant wait to see some pics of mine
Wow jin your on your way to a really nice shop,you already established yourself as a great builder.
Just remember only schedule 3 weeks work a month.you will be lucky to get than done in 4 weeks,sometimes even working late plus sat & sun.. you always will have delays in materials and have personal matters arise + little small jobs that pop up or freinds and neighbors pop in when they need the uses of your tools. Also clean up time and tool maintenance,all takes time.
great job jin
The Laws of Thermodynamics say:
Zeroth Law: "You must play the game."
First Law: "You can't win."
Second Law: "You can't break even."
Third Law: "You can't quit the game."
Do you wanna Play Thermodynamics ???????? I forgot "you must"
That looks sweet Jin.
QX6700 ES - B1 S5
eVGA 680i
ATI x1800xtx
Cellshock DDR1000
Silverstone DA750
wow, can't wait to get it. awesome job jin!!!! i know i will be happy. nice pics too!!
thank you very much jin and i wish you much success in your business!!!!
i can't think of anything to say i'm speechless!!!
I say it once again, no one on the planet can build a nicer V2000 phase unit
Your new self made controller looks mighty fine jin Your cooler is top of the line.
Great pictures - Did you have them professionally made?
There are drill sizes for a given tap size charts, they are usually stamped on those larger bit boxes that go from 1/16 to 1/2 by 1/64's.
you can also get heavy plastic charts that really last ,or paper ones,you should be able to find one on the net and download it.
No matter what size you want to tap 3/16........1/4.........5/16.......1/2 etc and obviously I skipped many. there is a given drill size that must be used.
Drill the hole to small you will break the tap to large and the threads are not deep enough to hold,
Also be aware taps come usually in sets of 3 of the same tap size & type, NF or nc.....more on that latter.
1: starter tap this has the most extreme taper to it.
2"standard tap, has taper that is only 2 to 4 threads long to use after starter tap
3: bottoming tap threads are straight to end of tap, last tap to use if you drill a hole say in 1" thick steel but only drill hole 3/4" deep and want to run screw almost to bottom,never bottom screws or bolts completely to bottom of hole or you can twist them off. allow at least 1/2 to 1 thread from bolt bottoming out in hole.
note" say you only have 1/8 or 1/2 inch thick metal and hole is drilled completely thru and you want threads to run completely thru. You can use starter tap as the taper goes around half of it total length so keep tapping till you reach the straight section,and that part passes completely thru. this goes for tap 1 or 2 as numbered above.
when taping use lubricant,oil or wd 40 or the like , turn tap approximately 1/2 turn then reverse direction until you feel metal(threads)being cut off . you do not just turn tap in clockwise direction. for Right hand threads, all though rare to find in most stores,you can get left hand taps screws and bolds that tighten in the opposite direction.(right hand taps screws and bolts is the standard)
clockwise then counter clockwise until tapping job is done. while in thin soft material you can get away without reversing to shear off the cuttings ,you risk breaking you tap.
pipe taps npt(national pie thread) are a tapered thread.different from screw & bolt taps.
machine screw & bolt taps, are straight thread
There are different types of straight threads, most common on bolts and screws is NC(national coarse) and NF( national fine) look for the nc or nf on the tap as it tells you ether it is a fine thread or coarse thread. (which on the chart or can be measured by a thread gage) or even a ruller with a good eye. Tells number of threads per inch (TPI),differs for each size.
info,did you know 1/16" &1/8 " are 27 TPI 1/4" & 3/8"are 18 TPI 1/2" & 3/4" pipe taps are 14 TPI and 1".....1-1/4".....1-1/2"........2" are 11-1/2 TPI per inch. pipe taps and dies obviously have same TPI.
the list is to long for screws & bolt TPI because of NC or NF and I,m going to work now.
Acme screw thread is common on lathes and milling machines as it has flat sides and tops,.......... a screw with less to no backlash used on better machines is a ball screw and nut,going to stop here on that type.
Last edited by wdrzal; 11-09-2006 at 04:52 AM.
The Laws of Thermodynamics say:
Zeroth Law: "You must play the game."
First Law: "You can't win."
Second Law: "You can't break even."
Third Law: "You can't quit the game."
Do you wanna Play Thermodynamics ???????? I forgot "you must"
Thanks for the awesome comment guys The picture was taken by me with back drop I made. And 2 1000w shop lights. I really need better lighting as the hues of light gets on the machine... Playing with the image definitely took some quality out but that's what it will have to do until I can find decent photographic light at decent price. Preferably defussion type.
As for threading, nice write up walt.... can you write up some kind of guide on that? I won't mind sticky on such thing as it did take me a while to understand all the acronym, etc on threading through searching as most fabricator are assumed to know, and info is rather sparse. You could search mcmaster.com to figure this out but it is rather time consuming for most
well i got my unit earlier this week and got to work on it a little, i seem to have under-estimated the performance i would be getting!!!!!
even priming with 1.6 in bios on a p5b-deluxe @ 4.275ghz (475 fsb) temp stayed around -7c evap never got below -39, idles @ -43 !!!!!
coud not be more impressed with the unit or with jin!! this is my first phase unit and i have been constantly suprised with the newfound abilities of my 6600 !!!!! don't want to clutter this thread with screenshots and such as this is the phase section but......just got finished with 2x32m pi @4.275 and 3hrs prime @same speed!!!! also accomplished 1m pi @ 4.5ghz @ only 1.5875vcore!!!after i get some better ram i will be able to see what this baby can do!!!
you can't beat the combination of looks and performance you get from a custom phase unit!!! best investment i have ever made!!! if it wasn't for the fine builders in this forum i would still be on water.
thank you very much jin, and all the other members who have helped me start learning about phase!!! i am hooked for sure now!!
2 of local customers who happens to be friend is going to pick these babies up shortly. Now, one of them is tad colder across all range than the other. Maybe it was not quite identical twins... I am not sure how to go about this... (not all compressors are same it seems again). Utilizing PID with relay to shut down in emergency, etc. Another thing is 2 ex-23 sitting in here for 6 hdd space... This might be first clear view of plus II fan I think too.
sweet stuff!!
what evap and Mount do you use?
I think I am going to base my next build off one of these. I am not convinced I need to upgrade my AMD 939 rig yet so I think I will start saving. For those of you that own them, how loud are they??
Jin, do you have any idea what the BTU/hr output on one of your condensers on an average unit at full load? Just curious.
MSI Big Bang XPower
Core i7 930 @ 3.38 Ghz
6 x 2GB Patriot DDR3 1600
XFX Double D 7850
Therltake Toughpower 1200
Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme
OCZ Revodrive 3 120GB
Corsair 700D
Dell 2405FPW
W7 Pro 64 bit
Well i hope someone responded back on noiselevel I strive to achieve as pleasant setup as I can get without sacrificing performance... (or was it the other way around?)
qdemm7. Exact figure I don't have handy as I was bit detached on first revision of condenser (I only paid for it it lol :P)
I've requested more specifc information with some conditions, (such as gas used, flow rate, pressure of fan, ambient temperature, moisture level, and operating wattage of compressor, etc all decides real capacity of condenser for the purpose.... hence I compiled the data to them to chew the number out for me).
Now... as I started closing how far I can possibly push on NF9FX imho, tis was bound to happen
First, look at the loaded temp with wattage given
Hmmm... what did we change?
Yes... I officially am done with NF9FX. I will miss the compressor dearly as it was my favorite compressor for last 70+ builds. It has come to time for some more boost in performance without sacrificing on noise front for once
I don't think this is end of how far I will go as I remember my first nf9fx to right now saw about 2-4c gain in average when I actually handed out my last unit to a customer 2 days ago. Let's see how much further I can go now
Originally Posted by Hey_Its_Cole
i am the very proud owner of the single unit on this page and the noise level is comperable to a quiet air conditioner. the unit sits on my desk and also i do not know if it made a difference but i used sound absorbing mat. on all flat surfaces inside case ,but i did it as i was building the case so i never really heard it without the stuff.
if i still used air on my 1900xtx it would be about three times louder than my vapoli. also worth noting, my old danger den kit came with a sunon 120 mm fan that the specs say is 45 db and it is much louder than my vapoli.
in other words it makes noise but since mine get's my 6600 up to about 4.5ghz stable and a 24/7 oc of 4.3ghz ,it sounds sweet to me.
i keep the condensor fan on low, and it's the loudest thing in my computer, louder than the compresser, in fact, the only thing i hear from my computer is the condensor fan
i have a "VapoLi" by the way(jinu's custom SS in the LianLi V2000B)
Athlon XP-M 2500+ 0343MPMW The King is Dead!
Phenom II X6 1090T 1025GPMW Long Live the King!
-------------------------------------------
I'm from the church of the operating room
:cries:Originally Posted by jinu117
The NF10's sound level is the same though, I gather from your post?
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