That heatcore is really awesome.
Have to get one, but I don't think it's as easy to get cheap heatcores for American cars here in sweden.
I've found some nice radiators here too, but they have those quite non-standard measuremeants (is that correct, meausurements?) which doesn't look very professional.
But they are all copper and they sure does the trick.
You guys know any more heatcores which have standard measurements, like around 120x120 or 120x240?
Anyway, keep the good job up
A64 3200+ @2700mhz (270*10) 1:1 | AMD 64 Boxed kylning
DFI LanParty UT 250gb | 512mb A-data BH-5@270mhz 2-2-2-5 3,6v vdimm
431w Enermax | 9700pro@448/404 | 3dmark01: 25027
none of them really match up with 120mm fans that well - that is where the shroud comes into play.Originally posted by Clew
That heatcore is really awesome.
Have to get one, but I don't think it's as easy to get cheap heatcores for American cars here in sweden.
I've found some nice radiators here too, but they have those quite non-standard measuremeants (is that correct, meausurements?) which doesn't look very professional.
But they are all copper and they sure does the trick.
You guys know any more heatcores which have standard measurements, like around 120x120 or 120x240?
Anyway, keep the good job up
all you have to do is get one that is semi-close in size to one or two 120s and then make everything fit right with the shroud.
for example, the '77 core has really screwy measurements if you want to direct mount 120mm fans.
two 120s are basically 120mmx240mm (more or less depending on the fans) but the '77 core is something like 268.75mm x 140.625mm. In other words, it is very non-standard when it comes to fans.
All you have to do is cut a top plate for your shroud that is a little larger than your fans (leaving room for mounting screws of course) and then cut side panels that will angle out to the edges of the core. If you have the correct angles and make it symetrical, it will look right and usually perform well.
how-to on the above described process coming soon (*fingers crossed*)
Last edited by Weapon; 04-09-2004 at 01:58 PM.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Man oh man, that is one sexy heatercore build Weapon.
How does it perform btw? That shroud is nice work man...looks sleek and mean.
I like my women the way I like my processors...naked.
I am not the HellFire that writes bios files. I work strictly on voltage modifications.
according to the onboard (and possibly screwy) temp sensors, the xp2100 never gets more than 5C over the mobo temp reading at full load. external sensors are going to be put on all the this and thats (including in the coolant) and I am going to retest it soon...Originally posted by Hëll ‡ Fîrë
Man oh man, that is one sexy heatercore build Weapon.
How does it perform btw? That shroud is nice work man...looks sleek and mean.
new toys have diverted my attention from the heatercore at the moment.
I just got two new "cases" to play with....one is a Sun Mass Storage unit with all the internal racks, etc. It is about 5.5 feet tall x 3 feet wide x 3.5 feet deep. case mods anyone?
I would tell you how much I paid for it but no one would believe me...
Last edited by Weapon; 04-11-2004 at 07:21 PM.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Weapon,
Someone told me you were making a pc for your bro like the one I did where it is mounted in the wall?
That is the same PC that I am copying your shroud for. If you are doing that, could you give me a few details about your install situation? Will it be in a storage room like mine? Is the room heated? That sort of stuff.
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson (1939 - 2005)
well, it just has the some pipes running thru the wall.Originally posted by TheDude
Weapon,
Someone told me you were making a pc for your bro like the one I did where it is mounted in the wall?
That is the same PC that I am copying your shroud for. If you are doing that, could you give me a few details about your install situation? Will it be in a storage room like mine? Is the room heated? That sort of stuff.
ardawg's computer room and garage (enclosed) share a wall. how could I refuse that?
anyway, I ran some 1/2" copper pipe thru the wall and his over-pimped weapon-built case will be in the computer room with 95% of the H2O stuff in the garage. my original plan was to build an enclosure for the stuff in the garage and eventually add a 7500btu waterchiller to the 5 gallon res I have already set up.
then, lady luck didn't just smile on me....she gave me a lap dance. I went to a computer store in one of the nearby towns and found a Sun Mass Storage unit. If you have never seen one of these, they are about 5.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and 3.5 feet deep. It was in perfect condition and I bought it at a great price (understatement). The Sun Tower will undergo some hardcore weapon mod action and then it will act as the enclosure for the H2O gear, the chiller and whatever else I can cram in this bastage. I will post some pics of it soon and give some more details. Right now I am re-planning a lot of stuff as I now have an insane amount of room and mounting possibilities. this is going to redefine fun.
stuff I can give details on:
the garage is semi-heated. there are some heaters out there but most of the time it is fairly chilly. the real problem will be when summer gets here as there is no a/c -- that is where the waterchiller will come into play.
for the colder winter months, I am going to make the loop switchable. it will have one route that it can take thru heatercores for winter and the other will run thru just the chiller for summer. I am tracking down some good ball valves for that part of the setup.
note on the thru wall pipes - I figured my bro would give in to the temptation of subzero temps sooner or later so I made oversized cuts in the wall and added a good 1" of insulation all the way around the pipes to prevent water problems from causing damage to the wall.
more to follow soon.
Last edited by Weapon; 01-17-2004 at 10:06 AM.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Weapon,
Wow.....sounds like a really fun project with all kinds of possibilities!
The server case sounds great. That's exactly what I was looking for, but ended up stacking mine as I couldn't find one in time.
Can't wait to see some pics and follow your progress!
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson (1939 - 2005)
aite, I am going to try to finish the shroud in the next couple of days -- somehow, I managed to forget that this is a 3-day weekend
I have more time to play than I thought.
btw, the Sun Mass Storage Tower is now in ardawg's garage and most of the water cooling stuff is attached. I will sneak my Nikon over there an take some pics of it...*thinking I will make him host the pics*
anyway, I hinted at the deal I got on the Sun tower earlier but I wasn't really that clear about it.
I found this tower in a comp shop in one of the nearby small towns - the exterior is probably about 98% (it has a couple small scratches but all of the panels, screens, plates, etc are perfect) and the interior is 100% -- the internal racks are all there and it literally looks brand new on the inside.
the jaw dropper... after tax, I paid about $65 for it.
now, if I could just find a SunFire 15k server for that price...
http://www.sun.com/servers/highend/sunfire15k/index.xml
"With 106 UltraSPARC[tm] III Cu 1.2 GHz processors, more than half a terabyte of memory in a single domain, and fifth-generation Dynamic System Domains..."
I wonder what kind of sisoft sandra scores that sucker gets....
Last edited by Weapon; 01-17-2004 at 10:46 AM.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Only one qustion: Why the heck did you mod the fittings that way cos all you really had to do would have been cut the original pipes shorter. Too much work just to gain nothing preformance wise. Looks great tough
cool cool cool!
if you look closely at the first pic that shows the original tubes, check out the tube on the far side of the pic.Originally posted by hatemi
Only one qustion: Why the heck did you mod the fittings that way cos all you really had to do would have been cut the original pipes shorter. Too much work just to gain nothing preformance wise. Looks great tough
the tubes on the '77 cores are bent fairly close to the point where they enter the tanks - this often leaves a crease in the copper tubing about 3/4 of an inch to 1" out from the tank. since the tanks have a larger section at the base of the tank and top section of the tank that sits about a 1/4 of an inch further back, you are not left with much room for clamping your clearflex (or whatever soft tubing you use) onto the remaining copper outlet if you just cut it.
besides, if you replace the copper tubes with the brass fittings, you get the following advantages:
-- barbs that help prevent leaks.
--you get to play with the torch
-- you can tweak the angles on the fittings by adjusting the angle of the tap when you cut the threads.
--you get to play with the torch
-- looks better
-- you get to play with the torch (admitted slight pyromaniac problem here...
also, if you just cut off the old tubes, you still have to deburr and smooth the edges or you can leave a sharp edge that will rip thru your soft tubing.
Last edited by Weapon; 09-06-2005 at 10:51 PM.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Makes sense
PS. I tried to mod the outlets on my old core but it realy didnt work out well
cool cool cool!
Here is link to TheDude's thread describing his dual room setup, great stuff.
I thought yopu'd want to have a sneak peak Weap, m8
$65 is a hell of a STEAL on that case!...you got a horse shoe up your....well.....you're lucky!
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson (1939 - 2005)
it was definitely a deal - this is almost identical to the one that will become the home of ardawg's watercooling/waterchiller setup:Originally posted by TheDude
$65 is a hell of a STEAL on that case!...you got a horse shoe up your....well.....you're lucky!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=11209
the chiller and the rest of the H2O gear will only take up the bottom 1/4 of the case. rofl...I have to figure out what to put in the rest of it.
the damn thing weighs a ton. we broke a door facing getting it into his house -- that didnt even phase the powder coating on the side panel. you know you have gotten a little carried away when you have to take doors off the hinges so the case can fit thru the door. rofl.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Man, that's a sweet case! Love it!
Why can't I find something like that for $65?
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson (1939 - 2005)
I got another one for $65 after tax -- it is a cabinet from a Periphonics VPS/is (Voice Processing Series/information server).
I was a little worried about the sizing of some of the rails on the inside but I think I can get everything to go into it now that I have pulled it all apart and given it a close look.
pic:
that is from the back of the case with the access door open -
check the lower left of the pic -- that is an average sized mid-tower case with four 5 1/4 bays being dwarfed by the cabinet.
the power supply is sitting on top of the cabinet - I dropped a Lambda 1500w PSU in the rack and it slides right in -- that give me 4 power rails - two at 5v and two at 12-15v. the 1st 5v rail will put out up to 150 amps. each of the 12-15v rails will handle 20amps or thereabout. the last rail is a 5volt 20a rail. all 4 rails are fully adjustable.
I already checked the spacing on the bottom -- I can fit my single stage vapor phase chage system with a 5200 btu compressor in the bottom. the vapochill compressor and parts can fit in the top. the watercooling loop will fit one level up from the bottom phase change. maybe I should change the bottom one to a cascade??
I will get this thread back on topic later with some info on the shroud...
Last edited by Weapon; 08-29-2007 at 08:26 PM.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Damn! Weapon, where can I find one?
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson (1939 - 2005)
I dunno where to get another one -- but believe me I am looking. I have been looking for cases like these for forever and I happened to find two of them in the same week.Originally posted by TheDude
Damn! Weapon, where can I find one?
If I come across anymore of them, I will PM you will the info -- I am doing a mega-web search for possible sources.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Cool...thanks. I got one of those fish that got away stories for ya.
A friend said he tried to contact me a while back to go to an auction with him to help him decide which puter stuff was worth bidding on. Some PC related Co. that went out of business in Pittsburgh. He and his Dad brought home some really good deals even not knowing what they had, but when he described the stuff and how much it went for I felt sick! We are talking high end stuff for pennies on the dollar! Stuff that I would have been maxing my CC out on! and been happy to do it. He is on High Alert for another auction and has my cell phone number.
I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me.
Hunter S. Thompson (1939 - 2005)
Picked up one of the heater cores the other day. $17.99, PN 399078 however the tubes do not go into the core as depicted in your pic. I am sure it is cheapest bidder so it figures. At any rate on mine the tanks are not shaped to the tubes and the connection has a slight ring protruding on each tube at the soldering point. Never did get the tube loose though I heated it to a nice cherry shade. It did however break loose at the tank when pulled. Used 3/8 adapters and barbs along with jb to seal up the threads at the tank. Proceeded to check for core interity and all seems well. Picked up a couple 120's as you show and a rheobus. Am thinking something along the lines of Mickey's exterior box in my case.
Thanks for putting me on to the core.
Last edited by Silver; 01-18-2004 at 10:19 PM.
A64 3000+ @ 2.7Ghz
Epox 8KDA3+
eVGA 6800 GT
28,000 - 3D2001
silver --
where did you pick up the core? at autozone?
that sounds like what started happening with the caprice cores - they had the round tubes and then switched out to the odd shaped ones.
I guess it is best to make them pop the box open so you can check the tubes before you buy them.
O'Reilly's autoparts might have the ones with rounds tubes...
In any event, here is a bit of a primer on making the shroud:
parts required for the shroud:
--12" x 24" plexi sheet (go ahead and buy a 24" x 24" if you don't have any experience with cutting plexi...
I use 1/4" but 1/8" will also work, the 1/4" is quite a bit stronger though.
--eight 6" threaded rods - 6 x 32 is the old standby for this but 4-40 thread will work and they are a little easier to slip between the fins on the core.
--nuts and washers to match the threaded rods. you will need at least 2 washers and 2 nuts for each rod. (so buy 3 for each one if you have the ability to lose these damn things like me)
--vapco cork tape, weatherstripping (thin but wide if you can find it), neoprene or rubber sheet --- any of the above will work for making a gasket that will seal the shroud to the core.
I recently started using vapco cork tape (pretty much the same thing as seal string on a prommie) for this and it works very well. most HVAC supply stores will carry some form of cork tape. if you buy a roll and you have any type of cooling that requires anti-condensation mods, you will find a thousand uses for this stuff.
--an adhesive that will work with plexi - you can order adhesives that are specifically designed for plexi from usplastics.com but they are not necessary unless you want this thing to be gin-clear when it is finished -- I always end up painting mine to match the core so I just use DevCon Grip-ton-ite which is basically a flexible super glue - check O'reilly's or AutoZone's adhesive section -- they usually carry it.
Others that will work -- if you rough up the plexi a little with some sandpaper, almost any good adhesive that will work with plastics will work will plexi.
optional extras
- eight one inch nylon spacers from the hardware store
- bondo Glazing and Spot putty - this one is mainly just for looks. It is great for levelling, filling cracks & gaps, etc.
-- Dupli Color high fill or regular primer
-- DupliColor spray paint - autozone, walmart, etc. should have all of these.
The first thing to do when starting the construction of a shroud for any of the heatercores is to measure the dimensions of the core (i.e. just the core - do not include the tanks). This will be used as a starting point for making the top plate of the shroud.
This is the usual method that I use when approaching one of these:
'77 core is approx. 275mm x 145mm.
2 120mm fans (some variance between manufacturers) are approx: 240mm x 120mm (a lot of them will be 238mm x 119mm but the size difference is not going to make much of a difference)
I like to have a little clearance around and between the 2 fans so I try to space them out just a little but I also like to have the venturi shape (as opposed to just a flatsided box) to the shrouds that I build.
so, with all of that in mind, I decided on a top plate that would be 255mm x 130mm.
that allows for 5mm between the top of the plate and the 1st fan, 5mm between the 2 fans, 5mm between the bottom of the 2nd fan and the bottom edge of the top plate and 5mm between the sides of the fan and the side edges of the top plate.
next, you have to determine how much clearance you want between the underside of the top plate and the fins on the core.
I like to have about 25mm to 30mm of standoff between the top plate and the fins as a minimum starting point.
25mm is easy to work with as you can get 1" nylon spacers at the hardware store and use these as standoffs for the top plate when attaching the side panels onto the top plate of the shroud.
If you put 8 of the 1" spacers under the top plate, it is very hard for the top plate to be anything but parallel with the surface of the core.
the rest of this is going to require some pics to make sense.
I'll be back with pics later.
I almost forgot about this -- I found it the other day when I was searching for different sized heatercores -- below linkage is to a shroud making how-to that uses brass stock. His method is very close to mine and it will work for plexi but you have to do a little work to figure in the difference in the thickness of the plexi vs. the brass stock that he is using.
anyway, here is the link:
http://www.dwpg.com/content.php?cont...4&orgartid=134
Last edited by Weapon; 04-09-2004 at 01:59 PM.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Was a good read, thanks. Yes, got the heater core from Autozone. Still, the tubes broke out cleanly from the tanks and the core looks good. Just kind of took me by surprise. Though I prefer the evap cooling (especially with tecs), the wife has let me know that she no longer finds the sound of falling water in the Living room appealing. Of course the dual 120's would probably not please her so got a 0 to 12v rheobus for the fans.
A64 3000+ @ 2.7Ghz
Epox 8KDA3+
eVGA 6800 GT
28,000 - 3D2001
lol. my wife is often not so pleased with my projects...Originally posted by Silver
Was a good read, thanks. Yes, got the heater core from Autozone. Still, the tubes broke out cleanly from the tanks and the core looks good. Just kind of took me by surprise. Though I prefer the evap cooling (especially with tecs), the wife has let me know that she no longer finds the sound of falling water in the Living room appealing. Of course the dual 120's would probably not please her so got a 0 to 12v rheobus for the fans.
example of the average complaints:
they are too loud
they take up too much room
they cost too much (of course)
they make the lights dim when I turn them on...
hehe.
Counting bodies like sheep to the rhythm of the war drums.
go to sleep
go to sleep
go back to sleep.
carpe noctem.
Just so long as I remember to turn it off when the "if I was a computer would you love me too" statement comes, then I think I am relatively safe.
BTW, go to the 20w energy for 75w of light bulbs (got them throughout the house). Keeps the light dimming statements to a minimum.
Last edited by Silver; 01-20-2004 at 12:04 AM.
A64 3000+ @ 2.7Ghz
Epox 8KDA3+
eVGA 6800 GT
28,000 - 3D2001
He he heOriginally posted by Silver
Just so long as I remember to turn it off when the "if I was a computer would you love me too" statement comes, then I think I am relatively safe.
BTW, go to the 20w energy for 75w of light bulbs (got them throughout the house). Keeps the light dimming statements to a minimum.
My solution was to introduce my 'better' half to the world of computers. She's a proud owner of Compaq nx9005.
Unfortunately it backfired and now she spends more time with it than with me...
So beware chaps
About bulbs, I hate this neon light spectrum!
I always mix 'em two energy savers and one regular - works quite well
My justification for running my TECs is that heating bills are much lower now LOL
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