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Thread: Lapped core 2 duo IHS pics

  1. #251
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    I was only able to lap with a 600grit and then with some rubbing compound... temps APPEAR to have dropped 3-4C at load.. which is REALLY good...

    We'll see...

  2. #252
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    "Anything over 600grit is a waste" ... Ive said that for years till I made my first pot and couldnt resist making her look pretty..... While Im at it, might as well make my e6600 look pretty too ( was lapped before but only to 600)..... Did 320 600 1000 1500....

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  3. #253
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    Can anyone post pics of how to do a flatness test ????????????

  4. #254
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    do i have to lap my cpu? This is Scythe infinity bought it yesterday,took out today to see what going on because temps are high and i found these marks!




    couldn't find my camera so i used my phone.
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  5. #255
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    Same kind of marks was on my Scythe Ninja, I lapped both, Ninja and E6600 and temps dropped about 10C.


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  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvd View Post
    Can anyone post pics of how to do a flatness test?
    This is how Joe Camel does it.


  7. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by BulldogPO View Post
    Same kind of marks was on my Scythe Ninja, I lapped both, Ninja and E6600 and temps dropped about 10C.
    Can you give me a link on instruction how to lap?
    and your temps are?
    Core™2 Duo E6600 3.4 Ghz / Scythe infinity
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  8. #258
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    I'll finish this up tomorrow.




  9. #259
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    My Work on my QX6700

    180,320,600,1200








    Fin!

    i'll be glad by my work, but it brings me only 3-2° lower temp

  10. #260
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    I have a lapped cpu in my PC, honestly my personal exp. i did not receive a temp decrease. always got the same results, and i have lapped 3 cpu's wierd huh? maybe im doing it wrong? doubt it, if im getting the same results as before the lap, means my IHS was most likely even to begin with.

  11. #261
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  12. #262
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    That's tight...looks like a little alien head in the chip.

  13. #263
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    I have noticed funny thing... When I am taking a pic my camera draws little green rectangle around the part of the picture it focuses on; I took pics after each grit of sandpaper and after 600grit it began to catch focus on reflection in CPU, not on real object
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  14. #264
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    All finished


  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by GAR View Post
    I have a lapped cpu in my PC, honestly my personal exp. i did not receive a temp decrease. always got the same results, and i have lapped 3 cpu's wierd huh? maybe im doing it wrong? doubt it, if im getting the same results as before the lap, means my IHS was most likely even to begin with.

    maybe lapping the cpu has no real effect at all..!




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  16. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by virtualrain View Post
    I echo that question... The purpose of thermal paste is to fill the tiny gaps in an imperfect surface... With a finish like that, does paste help or hinder?
    When people do the mirror finish it's just for the looks. If you just want to lower the temps by lapping the cpu, lap the HS to copper and you will have a good contact. Even if the cpu is lapped you still need thermal compound to fill the tiny air gaps.
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  17. #267
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nazu View Post
    When people do the mirror finish it's just for the looks. If you just want to lower the temps by lapping the cpu, lap the HS to copper and you will have a good contact. Even if the cpu is lapped you still need thermal compound to fill the tiny air gaps.
    The smoother the IHS the less "tiny air gaps" you have. That's why it's a no, no to leave a IHS at 600 grit lapped (for example). It's better to have a smooth surface, sometimes that's interepted as a reflective finish. In other words, the less ridges and uneven spots you have the more reflection you obtain. But lets be honest, mirror finishes are only obtained through the use of Brasso, etc. Lets be clear though the purpose of lapping is:
    -remove the tin as it's not good for thermal heat transfer
    -reduce the IHS thickness. The thinner the IHS the more likely you decrease the delta between the Core die and IHS temps
    -make the IHS as smooth as possible. This will reduce the amount of microscope air pockets.
    -make the IHS as flat (AKA "TRUE") as possible. Making the IHS as true as possible ensures good contact with your HS or WB. Thus allowing the HS or WB to do it's job by removing the heat from the IHS.

    When the IHS is smooth (IHS has an even surface) and flat you will actually push thermal compound to all 4 sides of the IHS. What this means is that there is very little microscopic valleys/holes that suppose to trap thermal compound when pressure is received from the HS/WB. So instead of trapping TC down it's only choose is to move to the sides as there is nothing below it to keep it in place. IE: microscopic valleys and holes. Now this all depends on the amount of TC used (which is very little) and how smooth/flat the IHS is (which is rare). There are times where a IHS is so concaved or convexed it cannot be helped (you cannot get a true surface on the IHS). However, lapping down the higher "peeks" of that section of the IHS to the lowest point of the IHS (valley or dip) should improve thermal transfer thus lower temps.

    Rule of thumb:
    When the IHS is convex you will remove IHS material from the center 1st, then IHS material is removed from the 4 corners. When the IHS is concaved you will remove IHS material from the 4 corners 1st, then removed IHS material from the center.
    Last edited by Eastcoasthandle; 04-22-2007 at 09:05 AM.
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  18. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eastcoasthandle View Post
    The smoother the IHS the less "tiny air gaps" you have. That's why it's a no, no to leave a IHS at 600 grit lapped (for example). It's better to have a smooth surface, sometimes that's interepted as a reflective finish. In other words, the less ridges and uneven spots you have the more reflection you obtain. But lets be honest, mirror finishes are only obtained through the use of Brasso, etc. Lets be clear though the purpose of lapping is:
    -remove the tin as it's not good for thermal heat transfer
    -reduce the IHS thickness. The thinner the IHS the more likely you decrease the delta between the Core and IHS temps
    -make the IHS as smooth as possible. This will reduce the amount of microscope air pockets. The less thermal compound you need the more contact you have between the HS/WB and IHS which results in better heat transfer.
    -make the IHS as flat as possible. Making the IHS as true as possible ensures good contact with your HS or WB. Thus allowing the HS or WB to do it's job by removing the heat from the IHS.
    I would have to disagree, the thermal compound if properly applied will not leave any air gaps, if you polish it, it's the IHS, then the polished metal, then thermal compound, then HSF, ow it's IHS, arctic silver, HSF, fewer layers mean better conductivity.

  19. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by kniwor View Post
    I would have to disagree, the thermal compound if properly applied will not leave any air gaps, if you polish it, it's the IHS, then the polished metal, then thermal compound, then HSF, ow it's IHS, arctic silver, HSF, fewer layers mean better conductivity.
    I did not say nor implied that using TC would leave air pockets. At least I didn't mean to
    When lapping you want as much contact between the IHS and WB/HS contact surface as possible without the need of TC. Now it's very unlikely to achieve "perfect" contact from IHS to WB/HS thus why TC is still used. All TC does is to bridge the microscopic gaps from the IHS to HS/WB. Thermal conductivity of the TC ensures good heat transfer similar (if not equal to) that perfect contact between IHS and HS/WB. That is why you use very little of it, in other words, a very thin layer of it on the IHS. IMO, when you apply a frosting type layer of thermal conductive TC you are basically relying more so on the TC to conduct thermal transfer then you are making contact between IHS and HS/WB...again IMO. In some cases it can work...for a while (using personal experience here).
    Last edited by Eastcoasthandle; 04-22-2007 at 06:04 AM.
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  20. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eastcoasthandle View Post
    mirror finishes are only obtained through the use of Brasso, etc.
    Erm..no

    I didn't use Brasso on mine..
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  21. #271
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    Damn they sure look pretty after lapping but I only really see the benefit if the heatspreader is too convex or concave. Hmm, maybe I should compare my E6300's heatspreader to my new E6600's coming next week.

  22. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by lawrywild View Post
    Erm..no

    I didn't use Brasso on mine..
    That's because yours is not a mirror finish by my definition. A mirror look can be had with Brasso and some serious "elbo grease". However, this defeats the purpose of lapping anyway.
    Last edited by Eastcoasthandle; 04-22-2007 at 09:09 AM.
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  23. #273
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    G.H.Z your proc looks absolutely delicious.
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  24. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eastcoasthandle View Post
    I did not say nor implied that using TC would leave air pockets. At least I didn't mean to
    When lapping you want as much contact between the IHS and WB/HS contact surface as possible without the need of TC. Now it's very unlikely to achieve "perfect" contact from IHS to WB/HS thus why TC is still used. All TC does is to bridge the microscopic gaps from the IHS to HS/WB. Thermal conductivity of the TC ensures good heat transfer similar (if not equal to) that perfect contact between IHS and HS/WB. That is why you use very little of it, in other words, a very thin layer of it on the IHS. IMO, when you apply a frosting type layer of thermal conductive TC you are basically relying more so on the TC to conduct thermal transfer then you are making contact between IHS and HS/WB...again IMO. In some cases it can work...for a while (using personal experience here).
    In any case one needs TC to ensure proper conduction.

  25. #275
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    sorry ... no in process shots ... but i will tell you, my 6400 was TOTALLY concave!

    took me about 45 minutes on 400 grit to get it flat. the sandpaper was hitting just the edges of the CPU for the longest time.

    though not necessary to go past 600grit ... and some would argue it's detrimental (purist thinking, anyway) .... i went ahead and shined it up:

    ...



    ...

    impacted temps enormously. dropped my load temps about 5 degrees overall.

    have fun.

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