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Thread: Core 2: remove IHS or not?

  1. #26
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    I was thinking the other day, would it be possible to drill or grind a hole in a 775 ihs and inject acetone or isoproply into the hole to take off the epoxy, if i could get a 775 ihs with some epoxy on it i may be able to find somthing that attacks it but not the chip. Better yet, does somone have a dead 775 chip that i could experiment with?

    edit: sry for kind of tread hyjack

  2. #27
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    it's not epoxy... it's solder...
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  3. #28
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    The easiest way to remove the IHS of a S775 CPU is to put the cpu in the oven... Do it and you'll see, that IHS removing without cracking the DIE is no problem. But don't forget to cut the silicon with a razorblade before you put the cpu in the oven... 100-120°C is the best temperature.. 80-100 is too low and it's possible that you crack the DIE when the solder isn't 100% fluid...

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyXP1700
    it's not epoxy... it's solder...
    solder doesent stick to silicon... there is no way any alloy will stick to the core or a cpu

  5. #30
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    i can 100% guarentee you its solder, its a low melting point solder.
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  6. #31
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    regular solder melts at like 280c so low melting solder cant be under 180c that would fry the chip. Metal canot stick to silicon, there is no possible way that any alloy could be melted to a silicon die. It may be like solder but it is not bound with heat it must cure, kind of like that liquid metal stuff if you let it sit to long.

    edit: just because heat allow you to remove it easyer doesent mean its solder, anyone here work at an intel fab plant? we could use some inside info
    Last edited by ak_47_boy; 09-02-2006 at 01:30 PM.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ak_47_boy
    regular solder melts at like 280c so low melting solder cant be under 180c that would fry the chip. Metal canot stick to silicon, there is no possible way that any alloy could be melted to a silicon die. It may be like solder but it is not bound with heat it must cure, kind of like that liquid metal stuff if you let it sit to long.

    edit: just because heat allow you to remove it easyer doesent mean its solder, anyone here work at an intel fab plant? we could use some inside info
    These Intel flip chips use LMP alloys with Indium for a TIM, summary



    Braver soles than I have removed IHS by melted the solder at anything from 77C to 85C

    Plenty of these solders alloys melt in the 70C range.



    Here's a pretty mad thread, I haven't seen one work after the surgery yet.

    Last edited by fornowagain; 09-02-2006 at 03:46 PM.

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  8. #33
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    You people continue to see the tree but miss the forest behind it.

    Say somehow he removes the IHS. How will he mount the cpu since the socket clamps on the IHS to keep the cpu in place? Also assuming he is a first degree relative of McGyver and finds a way to properly mount and keep the cpu secure, the socket cap will protrude on a higher level than the core, so properly mounting a cooler/block/whatever except an evaporator, and having proper contact will be pretty much impossible. Then we are talking about lapping the socket cap itself... etc etc.

    Too much trouble for nothing I think.
    Last edited by ewsforos; 09-02-2006 at 03:56 PM.
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  9. #34
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    Welp. its not hard... you see, you could clam a waterblock down on it, which would keep it in place.

    Theres no advantage to removing the IHS to begin with. Just lap the damn thing.

  10. #35
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    Right

    And what happens to the socket's contacts (since they are like bent little triangle thingies and not on the cpu) when you unmount/remount the waterblock a few times and the thermal compound has "set" nicely on the cpu?

    Keeping the cpu down is not a problem... _Securing_ it (so as to stay there), is though...
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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by LexDiamonds
    You are better served by going to the auto parts store and getting some 800-2000 grit sandpaper.
    well said 1200 to 1400 grit wet sanding droped my temps by 7 to 10 c loaded.
    but my chip looked like a UFO with a flippin dome lol... it took me about a hour to get it down to all copper color but well worth it...
    lapp the cooler while your at it...

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by zillaoc
    well said 1200 to 1400 grit wet sanding droped my temps by 7 to 10 c loaded.
    but my chip looked like a UFO with a flippin dome lol... it took me about a hour to get it down to all copper color but well worth it...
    lapp the cooler while your at it...
    Are you saying the IHS is copper?
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr_sharp
    Are you saying the IHS is copper?
    I'm pretty sure it is.... Its probably anodized on the outside though. Atleast IHS traditionally have been copper, so I assume these are too. Unce you start sanding you will very quickly start seeing the copper color shine though.

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  14. #39
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    Yeah, the IHS is made of copper.
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  15. #40
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    The IHS is definetly copper

  16. #41
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    wow... sanding/polishing the IHS makes so much more sense now lol.
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  17. #42
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    holy crap in a hand basket that was easy!

    Took about 1 min to cut the edges then 30 seconds to torch and it just popped right off!!.

    The core still has a bit or solder on it. Ill get some 2000 grit to take it off. I'm at work and dont have a cam, but i'll post some pics before i lap when i get off in the morning.
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  18. #43
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    You did this with a conroe? were there any SMD components around the core? Please post pictures

  19. #44
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    Allendale e6400. no SMD's. I'll post pics in the morning when i get home...

    Also,... i got a little anxious.... i started removing the solder form the core witha credit card. I've almost got all of it. Thinking i can take a dremel buffing wheel to take the last micro layer of it off.
    Current 24/7 settings
    Delidded L628B e6400@ 3.6ghz 1.38v
    3.9ghz 1.56v dual prime, 4ghz dual 32m pi stable on water and P5B Deluxe
    Patriot 667 LLK @ 970 mhz 4-4-4-4 2.3v
    x1900xt 690/780

  20. #45
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    alright the next step is to make sure you dont crush the core, are you going to use a shim? Im sure CrazyXp would recommend it

  21. #46
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    maybe. I'll try a shim initially. If the temps still aren't as good, i'll try idea about mounting the cpu WITH my waterblock, and some electric tape "feet". Works on my A64's.
    Current 24/7 settings
    Delidded L628B e6400@ 3.6ghz 1.38v
    3.9ghz 1.56v dual prime, 4ghz dual 32m pi stable on water and P5B Deluxe
    Patriot 667 LLK @ 970 mhz 4-4-4-4 2.3v
    x1900xt 690/780

  22. #47
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    all i can say is post some pictures i would like to so your results

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by outcast623
    all i can say is post some pictures i would like to so your results

    PLS,

    i'm interested in doing as well.

  24. #49
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    alright i just got home to pickup my camera. I dont know why the hell i didn't just bring the cpu with me LOL. But anyways, i should have pics up in about 25 mins.

    At this point all the solder is removed and its mostly polished. And let me say... its BEAUTIFUL!!! pics in 25!
    Current 24/7 settings
    Delidded L628B e6400@ 3.6ghz 1.38v
    3.9ghz 1.56v dual prime, 4ghz dual 32m pi stable on water and P5B Deluxe
    Patriot 667 LLK @ 970 mhz 4-4-4-4 2.3v
    x1900xt 690/780

  25. #50
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    As promised... the pics...





    Current 24/7 settings
    Delidded L628B e6400@ 3.6ghz 1.38v
    3.9ghz 1.56v dual prime, 4ghz dual 32m pi stable on water and P5B Deluxe
    Patriot 667 LLK @ 970 mhz 4-4-4-4 2.3v
    x1900xt 690/780

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