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Thread: D975XBX Aluminum Caps Mod!

  1. #1
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    Exclamation D975XBX Aluminum Caps Mod!

    http://vic.expreview.com/read.php?27&part=2

    This has got to be the coolest mod I have ever seen! Anyone know which caps I would need to get and maybe a how-to guide and/or diagram?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zorlac
    http://vic.expreview.com/read.php?27&part=2

    This has got to be the coolest mod I have ever seen! Anyone know which caps I would need to get and maybe a how-to guide and/or diagram?
    the problem is
    his mobo died
    poor guy heheh

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    Unhappy

    Serious!? Damn....

    I hope Intel uses all aluminum caps for the Bad Axe 2

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    mobo is ok several days ago , due to my fault, shorted 2 points
    Uni Hardware:
    http://www.unihw.com

    Team China

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    any improvement in overclocks Victor?

    Are those Sanyo Oscon's you have used?

    I bet you had to drill the board to clear out the solder, multi layer boards are a real pain to desolder.

    regards.
    Raja

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    Quote Originally Posted by raju
    any improvement in overclocks Victor?

    Are those Sanyo Oscon's you have used?

    I bet you had to drill the board to clear out the solder, multi layer boards are a real pain to desolder.

    regards.
    Raja
    Why is a Multilayer board pain to solder? cause its not the layers.
    Its the way they solder it, they almost hard solder the components. Thats why its so hard to unsolder them away.

    Multilayer boards use this technologi and it does not make it harder to solder:

    The walls of the holes, for boards with 2 or more layers, are plated with copper to form plated-through holes that electrically connect the conducting layers of the PCB.

    Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Printed_circuit_board

    Though soldering all those surfacemounted caps must have been a pain in the ass because of the little space there is around them.
    Aber ja, naturlich Hans nass ist, er steht unter einem Wasserfall - James May
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kallenator
    The walls of the holes, for boards with 2 or more layers, are plated with copper to form plated-through holes that electrically connect the conducting layers of the PCB.
    Single layer boards did not typically have the complete in hole plating, that was my point, that plating makes it very difficult to suck the solder out, the conventional single layer boards were far easier to rework because of this. I'm sure you have an electronics background. I used to work in pcb assembly for Texas Instruments and have performed rework with pumps and braid. The thru hole plating is only really required for multi layer, for single layer there is no point.


    I have a few pcb's here that are dual layer, even using conventional soldering iron methods for assembly, for de-assembly the solder is a real pain to get out due to the complete thru hole plating. Often you have to heat the legs of the device whilst pulling it with pliers from the other side. Once the device is free the hole fills up with solder, meaning you either need a very good pump and steady hand with delicate operation (to avoid pulling the whole plating out), or a very fine drill. Flow solder machines often pre heat the whole board to get a better joint, solder specs do vary, but melting points for most solder fall with the required range. The absence of lead has made soldering work/rework a little more tedious

    We made the same point in different ways that's all.


    From the face of it he's only replaced thru hole caps..

    regards
    Raja
    Last edited by Raja@ASUS; 08-05-2006 at 04:56 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by raju
    Single layer boards did not typically have the plating, that was my point, it makes it very difficult to suck the solder out, the conventional single layer boards were far easier to rework. I'm sure you have an electronics background. I used to work in pcb assembly for Texas Instruments and have perfromed rework.
    Oh, I see. (Feeling a little red on the chins >_>)

    I have just never had any problems with getting it out. Then again I have not soldered as much as you have
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    That's cool bro' we all learn from each other,

    I guess some of the boards (for audio and discrete regulated psu's) I have worked with can be a real pain.

    One of the best methods I've found for sucking solder out is braid soaked in flux, but as you said component spacing makes this very difficult. Easiest is a dremel with a very samll tungsten drill, just drill away once the device is out.


    regards
    Raja
    Last edited by Raja@ASUS; 08-05-2006 at 05:05 AM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by raju
    That's cool bro' we all learn from each other,

    I guess some of the boards (for audio and discrete regulated psu's) I have worked with can be a real pain.

    One of the best methods I've found for sucking solder out is braid soaked in flux, but as you said component spacing makes this very difficult. Easiest is a dremel with a very samll tungsten drill, just drill away once the device is out.


    regards
    Raja
    I had to adjust the hole on a dual layer PCB I made at school. It was 0.8mm and I needed 1mm for a Variabel Cap. So I just took a 1mm bore and drilled the hole with the bore in my fingers and it worked. So with the holes in the pcb maybe you can just lay away the Dremmel.

    Il try this later today with an old motherboard ^^
    Aber ja, naturlich Hans nass ist, er steht unter einem Wasserfall - James May
    Hardware: Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H, Intel i5 4670k @ 4GHz, Crucial DDR3 BallistiX, Asus GTX 770 DirectCU II, Corsair HX 650W, Samsung 830 256GB, Silverstone Precision -|- Cooling: Noctua NH-C12P SE14

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