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Thread: Redline alive..back from the death and still @270/3.6V

  1. #1
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    Redline alive..back from the death and still @270/3.6V

    Everytime it wont post, I put blue mushkin (spd 2-3-2) ant reboot it, set v to 3.4 then turn it off (without disconnected power to psu). Put back the redline and it post Thanks Brian...
    Last edited by Dumo; 06-10-2005 at 05:38 AM.

  2. #2
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    The culprit is ...my dfi ultra-d sometimes (or all the time ) initialize post with 2.6V mem.V(default). Redline with spd 2-2-2 wont post with low V. Mushkin blue with spd 2-3-2 post ok with 2.6V or 3.4V..(can't do it with tccd)..
    Last edited by Dumo; 06-10-2005 at 05:42 AM.

  3. #3
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    I am having a similar problem with my Ultra D and TMSP UTT-CH chips.
    I can boot with one stick and the jumper at 3.3v, but when I put two sticks for dual channel operation, I only can boot up with the jumper in the 4v position...
    Any sugestions??
    I have tried several BIOS (now running 510-2), reseting CMOS dont work, take off the BIOS battery dont work. I think that one of my sticks has a bad SPD rom, it could be for the high voltages, but havent passed them of 3.7v, and for 24/7 running I use 3.4v for 264 Mhz... and the sticks and mosfet are actively cooled...
    Any suggestions of I cant boot up with two sticks and jumper in 3.3v? Because I want to run 24/7 with Bigtoe trick, but I only can boot up with one stick using the trick as well...



  4. #4
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    @Lord_RTKK

    Try this: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=64189

    Although it sounds like you already have...maybe it is slightly different.

    Hope that helps

  5. #5
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    Thanks RyderOCZ, I will try it now, and come with the results...

    EDIT:
    YEEEAAAHHH!!! It worked man...
    I was thinking about selling my UTT´s and buying some GSkill LE or LA stuff, but now I know that my Twinmos are OK and the f***ing hardware is my DFI...
    Hope that DFI repair this HUGE bug...
    Now I can try Bigtoe´s trick with two modules... because when I feed my mosfet with 5v, it gets really hot (104º celsius, readed by external sensor, have pic of it)...
    Last edited by Lord_RTKK; 06-10-2005 at 07:05 AM.



  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord_RTKK
    Thanks RyderOCZ, I will try it now, and come with the results...

    EDIT:
    YEEEAAAHHH!!! It worked man...
    I was thinking about selling my UTT´s and buying some GSkill LE or LA stuff, but now I know that my Twinmos are OK and the f***ing hardware is my DFI...
    Hope that DFI repair this HUGE bug...
    Now I can try Bigtoe´s trick with two modules... because when I feed my mosfet with 5v, it gets really hot (104º celsius, readed by external sensor, have pic of it)...
    WOW, 104°C doesn't really sound healthy. You could mount a can to that chip and fry you a breakfast egg each morning with the heat.

    Well, that is something that DFI should really take care of. Temperatures of more than 100°C on a motherboard are not acceptable IMHO.
    Quote from one of our professors:
    "Reality is hiding in the imaginary part."

  7. #7
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    hrm seems like info I posted weeks ago, cept I would recommend holding down insert key, changing ram voltage and timings to even a bit more conservative. No need to always take out close orange dimm though.
    it's never fast enough!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord_RTKK
    Now I can try Bigtoe´s trick with two modules... because when I feed my mosfet with 5v, it gets really hot (104º celsius, readed by external sensor, have pic of it)...
    Get a fan blowing across the surface of the MB in the top right corner now bro

    Peace

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMC2
    Get a fan blowing across the surface of the MB in the top right corner now bro

    Peace
    I think it's a bug or faulty sensor:

  10. #10
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    Maybe... but my wittle Winnies never showed above 45C... even when my Winnie-That-Would (which is now in Winnie-Heaven) was running at 2850 on air But then, I wasn't running a X2 either ( Santa hates me... something about Mrs. Santa I think... )

  11. #11
    THE ORIGINAL OC JEDI
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    so I guess they weren't DEAD, ehh??

    C

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by charlie
    so I guess they weren't DEAD, ehh??

    C
    They spent 2 nights @ Colfax Ave. HQ....and came back healthy as an ox

  13. #13
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    WOW! Awesome Customer service. Wonder if it was the cold bug or what????
    it's never fast enough!

  14. #14
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    @EMC2: I have a 12cm fan blowing directly over the ram and vdimm mosfet, and a vantec tornado blowing from down of the case to up, pushing hot air through the upper fan, and putting a thermal sensor under the heatsink of the mosfet it reads those temps, but the heatsink dont pass from 70 under full load... I think it is a bad contact between the mosfet and the heatsink, but, it runs fine, and if the mobo dies, I will RMA it...

    @s7e9h3n: Is not a faulty sensor. I have tried two similar thermal sensors (not the built-in sensors in the board, they are external), and two reads the same temps.

    Here they are the pics of the thermal sensor reading 104ºC....
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  15. #15
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    muahahah i happened to me to, see this dumo :
    http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=65035

    what i didnt mention on that thread is, i do exactly like you do ( didnt unplug power chord to PSU), and she's back alive!!

    congrats!

    so only 2 people report this,and i think there's a couple also on that thread, so i think this not about lucky heh ?

  16. #16
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    Yeah, I am now running fine with my TMSP UTT-CH in dual channel, with the mosfet feeded by the 3.3v line @ 3.6v, and 3.4v vDimm. I can reboot, power down the PC, etc, but if I unplug the PSU from the power, then the system doesnt boot up, and I have to do the trick of removing one stick, etc... So I will have to live without unplug the power from the PSU...
    DFI, help us and resolve this bug!!!



  17. #17
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    @RTTKK - you'll get better results if the fan for the FETs blows across the surface of the MB Most of the heat is transfered to the MB, not the HS... and you need flow across the top and bottom surface of the MB to cool it best. (stick your finger on the HS, then stick it on the underside of the MB below the FETs to see).

    Here's a few pics that show what/why

  18. #18
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    damn daniel, i found my match when it comes to making pics to explain a point :o
    3 images and they are 3d rendered

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